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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.